MEET YOUR MEAT: WASHINGTON MEAT UP CONFERENCE AND THE ROLE OF FOOD ACCESS IN NICHE MEAT PRODUCTION04 Sep 2019, by AmeriCorps VISTA, Clallam County, Harvest VISTA, Washington Site, WSU Extension Office in
Harvest Against Hunger VISTA Benji Astrachan serves at the WSU Clallam County Extension in Port Angeles, WA. Building off of the highly successful VISTA-founded Clallam Gleaners program, Benji is in the first year of research and development of a glean processing program that will capture excess gleaned produce to process into shelf-stable items. By donating these processed items back to the food banks, food waste can be diverted into delicious food products, food banks can cut disposal costs and save valuable storage space and community members can learn new food preservation skills while working to increase access to local and healthy foods. Benji is also preparing to launch a community meal program to teach cooking skills and increase access to healthy meals while coordinating with the Hot Foods Recovery Program to save prepared foods from landfills. Through these projects, Benji and the WSU Extension seek to educate and empower the local community through increasing knowledge and access, while reducing food insecurity and waste in Clallam County.
Last week, Benji had the opportunity to attend a brand new conference called the Washington Meat Up, being hosted for the first time by the WSU Food Systems Program. This conference is based off the successful Cascadia Grains conference model and seeks to become a new interface for niche meat producers, processors, regulators, researchers, restauranteurs, and everyone else involved in the local meat industry to come together and discuss successes and challenges in their work.
After a casual 4am start from Port Angeles – the joys of Peninsula living! – Benji arrived with a local farmer and meat producer at the Seattle Culinary Institute, and immediately set off for the morning field trip. With a group of actors from across the industry, he visited Jubilee Farm, Falling Rivers Meats and Carnation Farm in the Carnation Valley to learn about some local meat operations and get an in-depth look into the ins and outs of sustainable and small-scale meat production.
The afternoon consisted of a series of break-out workshops and larger group discussions in which folks from every side of the niche meats industry mixed and discussed their roles, successes, and challenges within their work. It was an excellent opportunity for industry regulators and producers – people commonly pitted against each other by messy bureaucracy and sticky regulation laws – to get together and find common ground in their desire for local meat production. Of the different challenges, what clearly rose to the top was the need for increased access to USDA and WSDA-certified slaughter and cut-and-wrap operations for small-scale producers, who often end up having to spend incredible amounts of time and money traveling across the state to use these services. Other major concerns included the lack of consumer education on the difference between industrial and local meat. With a rising vegan movement and calls for giving up meat consumption to save the environment, the discussion is missing the nuance and differentiation necessary to identify local and small-scale meat producers – who provide essential ecosystem services, follow human practices and take good care of their animals and land – from industrial factory-farm meat producers – who generally fail on those same accounts. Although not directly involved in the meat industry, Benji was able to offer an important food access perspective to the discussion. While many niche meat producers struggle to educate their consumers on why their products need to and should cost more than industrial meat, the topic of how to get good local meat to those who genuinely can’t afford it has also largely been untouched. Benji had some excellent discussions with these meat producers and processors about the realities of eating on a SNAP budget and the difficulties of justifying more expensive meat purchases when faced with an unwavering financial bottom line.